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The Dyson Medic Blog

Dyson DC07 Motor Replacement Guide

Remember to have the appliance unplugged before attempting this repair.

This is the most involved repair to this machine, and should only really be attempted by people who feel confident enough to do it. If you need a new motor, you can get one >here<.


Tools Needed:

Flat blade screwdrivers (assorted).

T15 Torx screwdriver - you can get one >here<.

Possibly pliers or grips.

A brush roll removal tool - if your machine has a clutch.

Possible Symptoms of a Damaged Motor

The things to look out for are:

A strong smell of burning;

The motor may sound laboured;

The motor may make a low popping bubbling noise;

Smoke from motor case area;

A high pitched noise, which may indicate that the motor bearings are worn.

Please Read First.

The repair detailled on this page was carried out on a base model yellow and grey machine that has a single drive belt and no clutch. If your machine has a clutch, you will also need a brushroll removal tool. You can read all about those - how to use one and where to get one from here: How To Use The Dyson Belt Lifter Tool.


Dyson DC07 motor replacemnt guide


The first job is to remove the side pre-filter. This is done by pressing the little coloured latch as shown.



This filter is in two parts; both are washable and may be blocked and quite dirty. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry fully.



The cyclone unit should now be removed from the body of the vacuum.



With the bin removed, this screw needs unscrewing.



With the screw removed, the switch case needs unclipping from the vacuum cleaner. This sometimes requires a screwdriver blade for a little leverage, but dont damage the trims at the back.



Now, disconnect the cable from the switch and unclip the blue cable spade connection.



Now unlatch the wand from the vacuum body.



Push this little plasic button at the base of the vacuum; it is holding the hose cuff onto the machine.



Pull the hose cuff up and it should come away from the vacuum complete with the wand and the hose.



Remove the inspection u-bend at the base using the latch clip.



Now remove this inspection elbow; called a valve cover.



Now pull out the cable from behind the switch housing and remove it from the long cable groove running down the back of the vacuum cleaner.



This is where the cable enters the motor casing.



Now the soleplate needs removing. To do this, please use a large flat blade screwdriver or a suitable coin on the coloured retaing screws. They each turn a quarter of a turn only.



The soleplate has been removed and the brushbar and belt are now visible.



The belt needs unhooking off the motor shaft this can sometimes be done without any tools.



With the belt off the motor shaft, the brush bar and belt can now be removed.



The next task is to remove the small suction hose by pulling it off its flange.



And here it is unclipped.



The brushroll housing now needs unclipping on both sides and requires a bit of effort - whilst tilting it back and forth - to unclip it sometimes.



The two circlips that keep the head unit attached to the vacuum body now need unclipping, a screwdriver helps here.



The head unit now can be removed from the vacuum cleaner by bending slightly at either side and sliding the housing off.



Here is the other side......



This is the head unit (base assembly) removed from the rest of the machine.



Now, four screws need removing (they are T15). The red circles show where they are inside the tubes.



Here are the other two.....



Now with the screws removed, the motor casing can be lifted out.



Pull the cable out through the body and you should have this....



Unclip the filter lid, a screwdriver may help but be careful not to crack the lid.



Remove this cover.



Now unclip the motor retainer carefully with a screwdriver.

It is held in with four lugs.



Now the motor retainer is off and the rubber motor mount can now be seen.



Now the motor has to be pushed out. This will require some effort and may even need a little help by pushing the spindle against the floor or bench. Please remember that hitting the shaft with metal hammer will damage it, and unless you are replacing the motor for sure, it should be avoided.


dyson DC07 Motor replacement


The motor has been removed here.



Here it is, complete with the top and bottom mounting rubbers.



Remove the top rubber and metal clip and transfer them to new motor



Remove large bottom rubber and fit it on the new motor.



Disconnect the two wires off the old motor and reconnect them to the new motor.



This is now the trickiest part of the job....

The top motor mount has to allign perfectly to the shape of the housing. It can be quite frustrating to get it right, as the fitting is tight and it tends to move out of place as the motor is travelling up the casing.

It may go right the first time, but this is the exception rather then the rule. Take your time and start over if you get it wrong.

The requirement here is patience, as the wires can sometimes come unclipped as well and this means removal again!



Once positioned, ensure the cable grommet is pulled taut from the machine as highlighted in the red circle.



Refit the motor retainer, its marked "top" for reference.



You should now have something like this.



Refit this piece of trim ensuring its not snagging anywhere.



Thread the cable through this slot on the vacuum base.



Refit the four screws again ensuring there are no gaps or snags.


Refit the cable at the back of the vacuum into its groove; it should be quite easy to tell where it was fitted.


The top of the cable goes through here into the back of the switch housing.


Refit the wires to the switch and wire terminal, ensure everything is clear of the screw mount, and the sides and tucked away as before.



Refit the switch housing. If the switch cables are fouling it and preventing it from clipping home, remove and inspect the wires again.



Screw it up.

It's at this stage some people test the motor, but please be aware that the shaft is exposed, and if it touches anything or anyone, it will cause serious injury and/or damage so please dont do it!



Refit the main body.



Refit the circlips.



It should look like this now.



Refit the lower suction hose to its flange; check its fitted correctly.



Refit the brushroll housing into the head unit (main body assembly).



Refit the brushroll and the belt; push the belt through this hole here.



And pull it on to the motor shaft.



Ensure the brushroll has located in the lugs correctly (highlighted by the red circle).



Refit the soleplate ensuring that it is snug along all its edges with no gaps.



The filter lid simply snaps in place (replace the filter if it is very black and do NOT wash HEPA filters).



A nice clean and dry filter goes back into its housing....



And clips into place like so.



Now to refit the back suction hose:

This lug in the red circle above....



Goes into this part in the red circle above.



It slides down and clips in place; ensure its fitted correctly and clicks home.



Refit the inspection u-bend.



And refit the valve cover.



Clip the cyclone unit back into place.



It should now run like new!



Caution: All work to electrical appliances should only be carried out by competent, qualified people in accordance with their local laws. Faulty electrical appliances can cause serious personal injury and death. Always take the relevant precautions, and if in doubt, consult an experienced engineer.