Dyson DC05 Motor Change
Remember to have the appliance unplugged before attempting this repair.
This is the most involved repair to this machine and should only really be attempted by people who feel confident enough to do it. Please refer to the disclaimer at the very bottom of the page before you start.
Tools needed:
Flat blade screwdrivers (assorted);
T15 Torx screwdriver;
Possibly long nose pliers.
If you need a Torx screwdriver or a new motor, you can get one from here: >>Dyson Cylinder Spares<<.
Possible Symptoms of a Damaged Motor
The things to look out for are:
A strong smell of burning;
The motor may sound laboured;
The motor may make a low, popping, bubbling noise;
Smoke from motor case area;
High pitched noise may indicate motor bearings are worn.
Please Read First
This repair was on a machine that had been repaired by someone else who had removed the cable rewind and replaced the cable without it.
I really wanted to do a guide on how to replace the cable reel on a DC05 but I will have to wait until I get another to repair.
When you come to the part where the wheels need removing, with some models (usually late model DC05 machines), the wheels will simply pull off.
On the earlier models - like the one I have used for this guide - it is a little more tricky.
This guide will also show you how to gain access to the switch, but these rarely need to be replaced.
Please also use caution with the cable reel as it can jump out of its housing and this will cause problems.
First job is to remove the hose.
Unclip the lid.
Remove the dust bin.
Remove the washable filter.
Unlatch the lower filter cover.
This is the lower filter with the cover removed. This model is fitted with a HEPA filter. Yours may just have a filter pad.
Remove the lower filter, if it is badly burnt or blocked please discard and replace. It is always better to replace HEPA filters if they are very black. DO NOT attempt to wash a HEPA filter - it won't work and may damage your new motor.
Remove the rubber bumper.
This elbow where the hose joins needs to be pulled off.
It requires some effort but just pull it straight up. Using leverage with a screwdriver may damage the plastic so is not recommended.
This is what it looks like when it is removed.
The button below the elbow can now be removed. Use a screwdriver, and be careful not to snap the lugs.
Carefully remove the button.
The button on the other side also needs removing; carefully prise it off.
And here it is removed.
Now remove the lid carefully with a screwdriver by gently prising the lugs either side outwards.
Remove the lid
This is the stage where the wheels on certain models will pull off.
However, the model in this guide was one where the wheels didn't pull off. In this case, the four screws need to be accessed. They are hidden by the wheels.
Bend the wheel away so the screws can be seen. There are 2x T15 Torx screws on each side.
Sometimes, jamming a pair of pliers into the gap is helpful (highly technical tip there).
With the four screws removed, the last screw in the hole arrowed in the photograph above needs to be removed.
Lift the top off.
Remove the motor body
(The cable reel is missing in this photo.)
The motor is inside the case.
The four lugs need unclipping all the way round and this will remove the lid.
The lid has been removed, and the rubber motor mount can now be seen.
Pull the motor mount off, and the motor can be accessed.
This motor has overheated and burned the armature.
*** If you didnt pull your wheels off earlier ignore these next three steps. ***
If you have a plastic insert on the wheels, knock it through with a screwdriver from the inside.
Pull the plastic insert out.
The wheels will pull off the chassis really easily now.
The wheels do not have to be removed, but it is a lot easier if they are.
Back to the motor. Put the top rubber mount from the old motor onto the new motor
Now push this rubber grommet through the motor case, this will make refitting the motor a lot easier.
Connect the wires.
These two pins arrowed......
Locate into these two holes - also arrowed.
Push the motor into the housing gently make sure the holes and pins are aligned and don't forget to pull the grommet back and make sure it is in its correct position.
Snap the lid back.
Sit the motor casing into the lower chassis.
The upper chassis needs to hook over the round part and gently lower into position.
Check all the way around that the two halves are sat snug with no gaps.
When you are happy, refit the five Torx screws.
Now push the wheels back on.
Push the plastic pegs back (if applicable to your model).
Push the buttons back.
They should snap back.
Push the elbow back onto its mounting.
Refit the lid.
Refit the lower filter.
When refitting the filter lid make sure the lid latches are sat in the correct position.
It will snap back into place.
Refit the washable filter (having already washed and properly dried it).
Refit the rubber bumper.
Refit the dust bin, and the hose, and test the machine.
Caution: All work to electrical appliances should only be carried out by competent, qualified people in accordance with their local laws. Faulty electrical appliances can cause serious personal injury and death. Always take the relevant precautions, and if in doubt, consult an experienced engineer.